The International Writers Magazine: Thailand

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Elephant in the Room in Chiang Mai • Annie Lalla If you want to feel a King or a Queen, try riding an elephant. Nothing is more majestic than cruising through the rainforest atop this epic beast. In terms of effortless adventures offering up-close tropic scenery, elephant riding is hard to beat, especially in Thailand. Asian elephants grow from 2-4 meters (7-12 feet) in height and 3000-5000 kg (6500-11000 pds) in weight. They’re probably the biggest animals you’ll ever see up close, far less touch. Their sheer size is astounding to behold, add to that their heroic strength and you have the makings of a terrible foe. But something about an elephant prevents it from being frightening. It has a docile, playful demeanor that disarms even the most suspicious bystander; they really are gentle giants. With eyes that are soft and poignant, it’s hard not to trust them.

One aspect of elephants that create a feeling of safety is how slow and lumbering they move. You can always see them coming and the only thing they actively wield is their trunk -a long tentacle of curiosity always looking for interaction and food. The trunk itself is a fascinating tool, it moves with directed finesse and surprising dexterity wielding objects as small as a paintbrush or as large a log. The tip of the trunk is pink and alive. Shaped like a heart with a hole in each half, its has a pointy prehensile extension that acts like a finger. At the elephant camp they start the day with a circus-show of myriad feats performed by the animals. There you see juggling, painting, football, dancing and dainty little curtsies that leave you amazed.

My favorite part however, is direct interaction with the animals. After the show, each Mahout (trainer) brings their elephant into the open to feed on bananas and sugar cane. Watching them crush the hard husky stalks in their mouths confirmed their resilience, both inside and out. Apparently, their skin is so tough, even a lion struggles to sink in its teeth. When I was invited to climb up the elephant, I jumped at the chance. The creature crouched down with a front leg extended out as a step. Once on top I felt completely at home, the two bumps on the forehead (unique to this species) were perfect grips for my balance. I lay on my belly, head peering forward, a wide grin stretched across my face. My body sunk into the contours of its back and I never wanted to get off. But I did, and as I did, the elephant assisted with his muscular trunk, taut and hard like a man’s arm. Then he gave me a kiss on my neck –a moist suction cup the size of a mango. I was all giggles.

But the real adventure begins once you’re in the jungle, secured into a padded bench mounted on the animal’s back. There, you really are on top of the world. I’m not sure why they claim lions are king of the forest; elephants feel far more regal. Being that high off the ground is a trip in itself. I felt invincible. Moving through the canopy surrounded by leaves, you reign over all the land animals. Shards of sunlight filter though the foliage tiling the floor with shadows. The air is warm and breezy, the sway is rhythmic and the view is new and fascinating. When else do you get to walk through the jungle with your head in the trees?

Half of the ride extends onto open land, across hilly plateaus, through riverbeds, near waterfalls. There you can take in a vast panorama that would make anyone gasp. Mountains in the distance, wide sky above and lush greenery surround you. I imagined the days when this was an elite mode of transportation. Only Royalty would travel on elephant back, in velvet cabins though difficult terrain. This was the stuff of fairytales. Suddenly I was there -an ancient princess being ushered across the kingdom for a secret rendezvous.

After the elephant ride and a wonderful catered lunch, I was ready for the next adventure: bamboo rafting. We set out on a platform 30 ft long and 5 ft wide, made from 18 rods tied side by side. It didn’t look safe but it felt safe. I never thought one could float down a river on a pile of sticks but it turns out you can, and it’s dreamy. The bamboo is so sturdy and buoyant I felt comfortable standing, walking and dancing around. Steered by one man at the helm and a backup at the bow, he paddled using his stick like a ski pole.

The river drew us forward at a slow easy pace. Smooth and soothing, the ride was a glide below the jungle. The banks rose up on both sides leaving our raft in a valley. It was a visual shift to go from being on top the forest to lower than its floor. We floated by at the level of roots; it was an earthy relaxing space.

What struck me was how loud the silence was. Besides the whir of crickets and occasional splash of paddle, all you could hear was the wonderful absence of noise. The view was breathtaking. At times we were sailing past hills covered in green feathery grasses and cattails that swayed in the wind. There were banana plants, bamboo groves, orange and lychee trees. Colorful birds flew near and dragon flies danced by in tandem. With equal amounts of sun and breeze, the river lulled you into a trance. This journey is a portal to peace; you cannot help but relax and go with the flow.
Outside the city, Chiang Mai’s beauty unfurls like a lotus. Exploring the countryside lets you reconnect to your own sense of wonder and nothing feeds wonder like the wild outdoors. If you’ve never had such an experience, this is one place where it’s safe to be brave.

My elephant ride was adventurous and full of glamour; it made me feel grand, romantic and powerful. The river however pulls you down to its level. It bathes your senses and washes your ego away. Each is a unique meditation on nature that will endure in your memory, leaving you higher and humbler than before.
© Annie Lalla March 2008
lallabird@gmail.com

The Kindness of Strangers - a true story
Annie Lalla
"Hello, Hello!" I yelled louder and louder hoping someone would respond. My face was pressed up against my tiny bathroom window.

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