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••• The International Writers Magazine - Epic Chile & Easter Island

Part 2 - Epic Chile • Tabytha Towe 2026 Days 1-3: The big city, thermal baths and an artsy town  Photos © Tabytha Towe 2026

Arrived a bit tipsy from the Bodegas I sampled before my flight. Got into Santiago just before sun down. Walked the kind of sketchy area near my new apartment for the next few days. 22nd floor view though. Found cool graffiti and snacked at many stops. Political rallies were happening. I don’t know enough about the Government here but it appears the people want to have a voice. Also it was very patriotic, the most flags I’ve ever seen in any concentrated area. Dozens at a time.

My best day was going to Valparaiso, the urban, hip, old school, spray painted, artsy part of town by the beach. Where societies rejected heros went for inspiration, creative types, beatniks, poets and writers, artists expressing their values on the streets walls. It was my jam and I wish I stayed there the whole time rather than in Santiago.  European settlers re-built it several times, as it still to this day frequently earthquake prone.

You could see down the colourful hills to the oceanfront of Viña del Mar, where I came face to face with the large (and smelly) sea lions.  Cats and dogs are dominant here and yet loved in the streets. Anti-American establishment, no Mcdicks, no Shell gas, no Starbucks, only Chilean run businesses. Murals on every single corner, it would take days to look at them all. I only saw a portion and was in absolute awe.

Taking the road trip tour through Mintañas de Maipu was long but worthwhile. Got to emerge in the natural, thermal mud baths from the volcanic run offs that were sulphuric, healing and hot as hell!

It felt liberating, especially against the cold air on your skin coming out. I’d like to camp there one day and hike those mountains.

Next stop: … My Last Hurrah

Last minute decision: I had a one-way ticket to Chile from Mendoza. It was split between doing the other side of Patagonia, or seeing the Moai heads… I had booked my flights to Easter Island as the mysteries of it always intrigued me and I needed answers.

What a place! 

Isla De Pascua already seemed welcoming when you landed at the tiny airport. However newcomers, there’s no real taxi stand, most tourists have a driver pick up sorted with their accommodations. No hotels really either, no chains. I stayed at someone’s house. They could not fetch me though as their car was broken down and I suppose there’s like one mechanic shop on the whole island and they had to wait a few days to get fixed. I walked a bit, but without wi-fi. I lost my way then managed to hail a cab down the dirt road. Getting lost sometimes means you find something else, however when you have luggage, not as promising nor fun. I needed a shower.

Met a fellow travelling gal, also an air stewardess, and we rallied to walk around the shore to find some of the more modern structures.  It was scorching out, so we grabbed a local beer ‘Mahina’ which also translates in many languages in association to ‘moonlight’ or a lunar goddess. How right it felt going down. The sea was dreamlike. Knowing you were so distant from everything in the world.

I was in awe at every figure that stood against the backdrop of infinite green and blue. At sundown made it last on the list to get into a traditional song and dance performance, with the sunsetting behind us. Both were spectacular! All the dancers were gorgeous, the Polynesian hips swaying with floral leis in all directions, the men showcasing their abs and strength (highly appreciated.) The Indigenous Rapa Nui movements, like the New Zealander Maoris, and Hawaiian (Kanaka) M'oli people’s, are all native islander tribes, and all have similar cultural, rituals. 
The Moai aren't the Rapa Nui people though, they are distinctly the famous large statues. 

Quite the history here. As the folklore goes, centuries ago the island was plentiful, had two existing tribes, but one day ran out of food, too many people, not enough resources apparently. Which is interesting because back then you’d think the ocean was in its prime, but perhaps they too over fished? Well, it has been said that one day there was a bit of a civil war that lasted eons. In the end only eleven members of the island survived after all. They resorted to cannibalism during this time, when the food ran out and it was a big threat to eat your enemy. The new Chief Mayor would be the one to uphold one big tribe together, and was only worthy of the title if he completed the challenging task of climbing a cliff to gather ‘Manutara’(bird eggs). This traditional competition was for selecting a leader of the nation. The deity cult honoured whomever grabbed an unbroken egg and became hence, the Tangata Manu, Birdman. 

So basically they ate each other to near extinction, wild. 

You have to use a Guide to see anything. It is their way of earning a living showing you these sacred places, for safety both of the explorer and of the statues. Security is around all the figures to make sure no one goes too close. These are their beliefs, respect them. Also you must pay them for it, but you get a great tour of these magnificent, monolithic human-like, stone carvings.

They are made up of volcanic rock ash. Created between the 13th and the 17th centuries, there were once 1000+ erected over these years, yet many have been toppled by the war, with their faces down in ruins, or crushed in earth quakes, washed away even by tsunamis. Some strong waves man!

Known to Rapa Nui people as “The Living Faces of our Ancestors”.
These heads are portioned larger than the bodies, as the bottom halves are buried in the ground so their spiritual heads can look out for you, peeking out of the land. So fascinating to see them up close! They are about 4 meters high with weight of up to 14 tons. They were built on ‘Ahus’ ceremonial platforms, but not that many stand still today. Took about 6-12 months to carve each one, utilizing the brute strength of up to 50 men. Years ago you could see some of the bodies as well, but they have since re-buried them in the ground and covered them once more. Darn! I will say that Chilean artists are phenomenal! Back in Santiago I went to a museum and the exhibits were brilliant! I would buy so many pieces if I was able to. Guess it started in Isla de Pascua making giant, stone carved faces. 

How did they do it, minimal technology? 
They “walked” the completed figures into place by tying rope around their heads then balancing them off right to left as if they were in fact, walking little steps. Hard work! Or when there were an abundance of trees, they’d use the logs and roll the statues into place, then pull them up by ropes. The trees all vanished at one point and also contributed to the ancient anarchy of the tribal war. With no more trees, less fruit to eat and no more logs for construction to build with, no more leaves used as clothing or for food containment, must've been a rough time. 

More trees have been planted since. 
 
I asked new friends I met if they thought the cockroaches would be massive there. Turns out, they fucking fly too! Only seen at night, you could hear them in the silence. My new Irish mate and I were on a roof top having a shared end of day pisco and chat of what we saw and learned. Soon enough a roach suddenly just flew onto my chest, but I was wearing a crochet tee! The thing got its legs caught and was batting its gross wings. I let out such a blood hurdling scream that the downstairs staff ran up cause they thought I was on fire. Must’ve been hilarious to them as they are nothing to them, and I was shaking my bosom in hysterics trying to get rid of the thing. I almost burned that top after.  

Village Vaihu, has been re-constructed to show us how they lived. Communities flourished, had underground chicken coups, vegetation, stone huts for protection in the shade, hay tents to sleep in. 

Akahanga, Ranga Rakaku, Tongariki and Te Pito Kura are the sacred lands where you’ll find the ancestral heads. The 12 strong with upright bodies on a row holding the line are so regal. Down 1 or 2 by now. It was in fact the Japanese who came in and restored these heads in the 1990’s. They funded the project to reattach heads onto shoulders with excavation and lifting the heavy stones. In Okinawa, the word ‘Moai’ refers to a traditional support group. Twas not cheap to get there and return to Santiago to go home thereafter, but again, once in a lifetime chance. 

Last day: Illegal trail making and sneaky kisses

I call this the no-sleep tour as the roosters were backwards. Every morning they would start at 1am, that would kick off the dogs being excited, so I’d hear barking and cock crowing for hours. By the time I needed to be up and awake (early morning starts for me), they’d stop around that exact time. I set my alarm for 5.30am to catch the sunrise, they chose to just stop right then I swear to god! Is the magnetic field upside down on the island? I will never understand how they have one job and did it wrong. Cockcrow at dawn as it has been done for thousands of years! 

I had an ATV waiting outside my window to drive us to Rano Kau, the dormant, volcanoe crater view. My Irish pal and I rode up past cows grazing on the road side. The pink and golden hues glowing up over the horizon, it was as if we were chasing the colours melting in with the sky and land. We made it right on time to see the full sun rise up over this swamp, revealing textures and layers like an oil painting. 

A security guard abandoned his post. When he left, we hoofed it to the unmarked pathway. Past a horse, finding our own route on the entire craters rim. It was 7km around the circumference, with one obstacle that we simply would fall to our deaths had we tried, so we turned around. This was almost more enthralling to walk on than it was to see the Moai! In the moment, unexpectedly but taking in every breath of that pure, natural beauty surrounding us, he grabbed my face and gave me a kiss. My first new person kiss since my ex, so it has been years since I’ve made out with anyone else. Totally in the moment, not sure if I would have continued it had it not been for the scenery and anticipation of getting caught, or the danger of being on the edge, made it all the more, well I suppose romantic. It was rather nice.

After the part we could not cross, we discovered something else marvelous and climbed down some rocks to see the revelation of two more small islands! How beautiful, I may blow that picture up and hang it on my wall. Observing the glorious entirety of this old place was magical. Also more fun as we evaded the rules. 

Upon our return journey back to the ATV a couple hours later, a local guide busted us coming up through the no enter zone;  gave us some side eye as he tore his tourist group away from us doing a bad thing. We played ignorant to the blatant sign that said “do not trespass”, oops! We were only allowed to step to the Mirador point, no further. But we got there so early we couldn’t be stopped! My favourite experience of Easter Island was this. Great way to finish my excursion there, though I could’ve stayed an extra day to spend at that insanely soft sand beach. One of the prettiest and with the best waves. 

We rode back to Hanga Roa to go collect our deserved stamps in our passports at the Tourism Office, had sushi on the waterfront, I got some souvenirs, then headed on top of the ATV with my luggage, returned to the tiny airport. I said bye to my guy friend, hopped on the Latam flight back to Santiago to head towards Vancouver *good airline, and they use paper cups so no plastic waste, yay. 

I managed to pass some hours in Macul before I descended homeward bound. I played and walked in the sun through old grapevines of Carmenere, sipping on a glass barefoot, watching the chickens and goats roam about. 

I will do Chile again. Have another hike to complete don't I?

Hasta luego y gracias para todo, te Amo. 

Hope you get to enjoy visiting these places one day. Be well. 

© Tabytha Towe January 2026 - Part One in Agentina here

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